About Links and Bands for Rolex Watches

The topic of Rolex links and bracelets often sparks a lot of questions.
In the early days, wristwatches didn’t come with metal bands - leather straps were the standard. Even in the 1960s and 70s, Rolex didn’t appear to treat bracelets as a core part of their product. This is just my theory, but it might explain why so many vintage Rolex watches feature bracelets stamped “Made in Mexico” or “Made in USA.” It seems Rolex allowed third-party manufacturers to produce them.

When a customer purchases a Rolex, authorized dealers typically size the bracelet and often keep the removed links. These links are sometimes resold to other customers, as genuine Rolex links - especially in brand-new condition - are extremely valuable and increasingly difficult to find.

Over the years, I’ve heard many people say, “My local AD ordered authentic links from Rolex.” Unfortunately, these stories are usually not true. Rolex does not sell individual links. That’s exactly why they’re so sought after. However, dealers may resell links they’ve previously removed and kept. The rest of the links on the market? Most are aftermarket.

So, how do authentic Rolex links differ from aftermarket ones? The difference is night and day - especially with modern models. The most important distinction is the fit: genuine links install flawlessly. No filing, no adjustments - just a quick, 10-second job with a screwdriver.

You’ll find plenty of “specialists” online sharing their “knowledge” about Rolex links and bracelets. Sure, if the engraving is obviously off, it’s not authentic. But with modern technology, replicating Rolex markings isn’t that difficult. What truly sets fake links apart is the quality. Aftermarket links are made for the value-conscious buyer - those who prioritize price over precision. As a result, they’re always inferior.

How to Spot an Authentic Rolex Link

You might wonder how to verify the authenticity of Rolex bracelet links, especially since they typically don't feature engravings or markings. One of the easiest ways is to examine the screws.

First, Rolex always uses screws - not pins - in their links. If you see a link held together with pins, that’s an immediate red flag.

Now, take a close look at the screw in the photo. Notice how it’s not perfectly aligned with the hole? It may even appear as if the hole is slightly larger than the screw itself. That kind of misalignment is never found on a genuine Rolex link. Authentic Rolex screws are always perfectly centered and flush with the surface of the link.

Sometimes, on counterfeit links, screws are set too deep or protrude slightly. Again, this is something you’ll never see on a real Rolex - precision is key, and their craftsmanship ensures every screw sits perfectly flush.

Need an extra link? Try to find a used one, or ask your local authorized dealer if they’ve kept any from past customers. But be prepared to pay a premium - they’re not cheap. As with everything Rolex: if it’s cheap, it’s probably not Rolex - and it doesn’t belong on your watch.