About Rolex Diamond Bezels

A watch bezel is more than just a decorative ring - it plays a critical role in the structure and function of your timepiece. It’s the component that compresses the crystal gasket and holds the crystal securely in place. If the bezel isn’t precisely cut, the crystal can either pop out or shatter during installation. Bezels are installed using a watch press, which means they fit very snugly. As a result, the bezel directly affects the watch’s waterproof integrity.

Rolex manufactures its bezels from high-quality materials like gold or stainless steel, with or without diamonds. However, Rolex produces relatively few models with factory diamond bezels—and when they do, they come at a premium price. This scarcity has fueled a large aftermarket industry catering to customers who want to add diamonds to their watches without paying Rolex prices.

In the past, many jewelry stores would craft diamond bezels in-house. While the process isn’t overly complex, the quality often left much to be desired. These bezels were typically made quickly, with lower-grade diamonds and less precision. As a result, they were prone to falling apart or leaking water. In my opinion, these bezels were a major downgrade - thankfully, most haven’t stood the test of time.

In the 21st century, we saw a rise in aftermarket bezels manufactured in factory settings. These are better - more consistent in quality and appearance, but still not on par with Rolex standards. To appeal to a broader market, manufacturers began offering those bezels in a range of sizes for the same model. For example, for the popular Datejust 36mm, bezels range from 1.00ct to 5.00ct.

More recently, I’ve noticed a flood of cheap diamond bezels entering the market. These resemble the DIY bezels of the 1970s but use even lower-quality diamonds. I haven’t worked with them personally, but from what I’ve seen, they’re a poor substitute for the higher-quality bezels I used to offer.

Remember the old saying, “You get what you pay for”? That couldn’t be more true when it comes to diamond bezels for Rolex watches.