How to Choose a Watchmaker for your Vintage Rolex
The Quartz Revolution and the Enduring Allure of Rolex
In the late 20th century, the watch industry experienced a seismic transformation. The arrival of affordable, highly accurate quartz movements—led by innovators like Seiko—disrupted the traditional Swiss watchmaking hierarchy. Many established brands were forced to adapt or face extinction. While some embraced quartz technology, Rolex took a different path. After a brief foray with its Oysterquartz line, the brand ultimately reaffirmed its commitment to mechanical self-winding movements.
Before I became involved in the watch industry, I didn’t understand why anyone would pay a premium for an automatic movement. Like many people, I saw a watch as a simple tool—its purpose was to tell time, and as long as it was accurate and reliable, that was enough. But Rolex is far more than a timekeeping device. It is a work of art, a symbol of craftsmanship, heritage, and engineering excellence. For most of us, owning a Rolex isn’t just about telling time—it’s about appreciating the skill, tradition, and legacy behind each timepiece.
The Importance of Proper Servicing
Rolex recommends servicing its watches approximately every 10 years. Authorized service centers offer the peace of mind that comes with factory-trained technicians, genuine parts, and specialized tools. This level of service is especially valuable for newer models, where maintaining factory specifications is essential. However, the cost of authorized servicing can be significant.
As watches age, many owners turn to independent watchmakers—often highly skilled artisans in their own right—who can provide quality service at a more accessible price. But not all watch repair specialists are created equal.
Jeweler vs. Watchmaker: Know the Difference
One common misconception is equating jewelers with watchmakers. Many people instinctively bring their Rolex to a local jewelry store for service, not realizing the critical difference between the two. Jewelers sell watches; watchmakers repair them.
Some jewelry stores employ in-house watchmakers to attract customers, but in my experience, it’s rare to find a truly skilled professional working behind the counter of a retail store. A highly skilled watchmaker is far more likely to operate an independent workshop, where they can focus on their craft without the constraints of retail.
Genuine Parts Matter
Access to genuine Rolex parts is another crucial factor. Only watchmakers with official Rolex certification can purchase authentic components directly from the brand. Others must rely on third-party vendors or aftermarket substitutes. And let me be clear—aftermarket parts have no place in a Rolex.
When we perform a Rolex overhaul, one of our first steps is to identify and remove any non-genuine components. These parts often cause issues during assembly or calibration and compromise the integrity of the watch. We replace them with authentic Rolex parts - either new or carefully sourced pre-owned components. In our shop, aftermarket parts go straight into the trash. They simply don’t belong in a timepiece of this caliber.
And contrary to popular belief, genuine Rolex parts are not prohibitively expensive. The real value lies in preserving the performance, reliability, and legacy of your watch.